Aged LED Lantern

I bought this lantern at a tool 'Tent Sale' for $4.00.  I have also seen them at Walmart (camping department) for under $5.00.
Parts List:
  • Cheap kerosene Lantern: $4.00
  • One Slide Switch (Radio Shack #275-406a): $2.29 (for 2)
  • One 330 Ohm Resistor (Radio Shack #271-1315): $0.99 (for 5)
  • One Red LED 20mA, 3v: $0.49
  • 5 inches of Heat Shrink tubing: $0.99 (for 2')
  • 5 inches of Red and Black wires: Scrounge
  • Misc. Aluminum foil tape: Scrounge
  • Misc. Velcro tape: Scrounge
  • Misc. White cloth: Scrounge
  • One 9 volt battery snap connector: $0.99 (for 5)
  • One 9 volt battery: $0.99 (I think?)

Destruction time... Getting the lantern ready.
Carefully take out the glass and unscrew the wick assembly.










Cut off the top part of the wick assembly with a hack-saw.
Use gloves for hand protection.









You need to remove the bottom of the lantern.  I did this with the use of a can opener (don't tell my wife).






 
Again, use gloves!  This stuff is SHARP and will cut you!









When done, fold down the edges.











* *   This part is optional.   * *
I thought I was going to use a large bulb for the light.  So I thought I need to enlarge the opening.  I drilled a bunch of holes then I cut them with some old tin snips.








After that I smoothed down the edges.









The Light (LED) Assembly
Parts:
  • One Slide Switch (Radio Shack #275-406a):  $2.29 (for 2)
  • One 330 Ohm Resistor (Radio Shack #271-1315):  $0.99  (for 5)
  • One Red LED 20mA, 3v:  $0.49
  • Heat Shrink tubing:  $0.99 (for 2')
  • Red and Black wires:  Free (found in my garage)

It is important that if you change from the LED listed above, you might have to change the resistor size.

Cut the wires back on the resistor to about a 1/4".  Solder the the resistor wire (it doesn't matter which way it is facing) to the short wire of the LED.  Then solder the other end of the resistor to the BLACK wire.  Solder the RED wire to the longer wire on the LED.  Place the Heat Shrink Tubing over the connections and lightly run your soldering iron over it to shrink.







Putting the assembled LED in the wick housing.
Cut a wooden piece to fit in the underside of the wick holder piece.








I love to use Aluminum Foil Tape!

You can get it at the Home Center.
FYI: This stuff is used for taping joints and seams on foil jacketed insulation.





Drill a 1/4" hole in the wood.  Then place the wood in the underside of the wick piece.  Then tape it down using the foil tape.  Here, I am trimming off the excess tape.
(sorry about the blurry pic)








Get a piece of white cloth, cut it about 2" tall in a jagged pattern, roll it into a circle, then tape it to the top of the wick assembly.










First wrap the top of your LED assembly with black electrical tape for protection.
Then insert the LED assembly through the hole in the wood and tape it down using the foil tape.

Install the switch and putting it all together
Drill a couple of holes in the side and trim out using some tin snips.
Place the switch in place and tape down using the foil tape
(not shown in this pic).





Solder the connections as shown then use the heat
shrink tubing to protect the connections.

Red (+) to switch, switch to red from LED.
Black (-) to black from LED.

FYI:  I am holding the battery in place using velcro.


Turn on the switch!
This pic was taken with the shop lights on.








This pic was taken with the shop lights off.











Put the glass back on.
This pic was taken with switch off and the shop lights on.










This pic was taken with switch on and the shop lights on.











Lightly dust the lantern with some grey paint.











You may want to leave it this way.
It looks like on old dusty lantern.
(LED is off)









I added a light dusting of black to give it an older look.
(LED is on)










Original author: Jim Cox
Original URL: http://www.bloodsworthmanor.com/haunt/lantern.htm